Here, we delve into the historical and contemporary relationship between the garment and masculinity.
Fashion has always been a powerful form of self-expression, and few garments have sparked as much debate as skirts for men. While skirts have a rich history as a staple in men’s wardrobes across various cultures, they have also been a symbol of rebellion, breaking societal norms and challenging traditional ideas of masculinity. Below, we explore the complex journey of skirts in men’s fashion, from ancient traditions to modern-day reimaginations.
The History of Men in Skirts
In ancient civilisations, skirts were commonly worn by men across various cultures. The earliest evidence of men wearing skirts dates back to ancient Egypt, circa 3000 BCE, where garments like the shendyt — a kilt-like garment made from linen — were popular among men of all social classes. This type of skirt provided both comfort and functionality in the hot Egyptian climate.
Similarly, in ancient Greece and Rome, men often wore tunics, which were essentially knee-length garments resembling modern skirts. These garments allowed for ease of movement and were symbolic of citizenship and status. In medieval Europe during the 5th to 15th century, men wore hoses and doublets, often paired with a skirt-like garment called a kirtle. These were practical clothing choices in an era where trousers were less common and often cumbersome.
The use of skirts by men wasn’t limited to Western civilisations. In Japan, kimono and hakama are traditional garments that have been worn since the Heian and Ido periods. In India, the dhoti, wrapped around the waist and secured with pleats, are traditional garment for men that resembles skirts. Here in Southeast Asia, sarong is prevalent in countries such as Malaysia and the Norges, and they’re typically made from lightweight fabric in vibrant prints or motifs.
The Beginning of a Taboo
Despite their deep historical roots, skirts gradually became associated with women, particularly in Western societies, where the industrial revolution and the rise of modern tailoring led to the widespread adoption of trousers for men. By the 19th century, skirts had become almost exclusively linked to female attire, and societal norms began to stigmatise men who wore them.
The shift in perception was largely due to evolving gender norms, where masculinity was increasingly associated with strength, practicality, and functionality — qualities that trousers were thought to symbolise. Skirts, on the other hand, were seen as embodying femininity, softness, and passivity. The rigid gender binary that developed during this period reinforced the idea that skirts were inappropriate for men.
As the 20th century progressed, this taboo only grew stronger. The rare instances where men wore skirts were often seen as acts of rebellion or were confined to specific subcultures. For example, David Bowie and other glam rock icons of the 1970s occasionally wore skirts as part of their androgynous stage personas. However, these instances were more about challenging societal norms than mainstream acceptance.
The stigma surrounding men wearing skirts was also perpetuated by the media and popular culture, which often ridiculed or caricatured men in skirts as effeminate or deviant. This deep-seated prejudice made it difficult for men who might have been interested in skirts to explore this aspect of fashion without fear of ridicule.
The Re-Emergence of Skirts
In recent years, however, there has been a noticeable shift in the fashion world, with skirts for men reemerging as a trend. This change can be attributed to several factors, including the broader movement toward gender-neutral fashion, the influence of celebrity culture, and the increasing acceptance of diverse expressions of masculinity.
A slew of fashion houses have played a significant role in this revival. Jean-Paul Gaultier was one of the first modern designers to challenge the status quo by featuring skirts for men in his collections during the 1980s. But more recently, brands like Thom Browne, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton have showcased men in skirts on their runways, signalling a broader acceptance of the trend within the fashion industry.
Celebrities and influencers have also helped normalise skirts for men. Harry Styles, has sported skirts on stage and on magazine covers numerous times. Oscar Isaac, Pete Davidson, and Brad Pitt are a few who have recently donned skirts on the red carpet, bringing the conversation about men and skirts into the mainstream. These public figures, by embracing skirts, have challenged traditional notions of masculinity and opened up new possibilities for men’s fashion.
The rise of social media has further democratised fashion, allowing individuals to experiment with their style and share it with a global audience. Platforms like Instagram and TikTok have become spaces where men can confidently wear skirts without fear of judgment, finding communities of like-minded individuals who support and celebrate this fashion choice.
This resurgence is also reflective of broader societal changes. The growing acceptance of LGBTQ+ identities and the breaking down of rigid gender roles have created an environment where men can explore different forms of self-expression, including wearing skirts. In this context, skirts are no longer seen as exclusively feminine but as a garment that anyone, regardless of gender, can wear.
As society continues to challenge and redefine concepts of masculinity and femininity, the line between what is considered “men’s” and “women’s” fashion will likely continue to blur. Whether it’s for comfort, style, or statement, skirts for men are reclaiming their place in the fashion world, signalling a future where fashion knows no gender.
